Las Vegas at Christmas with a kid: two nights on the Strip, KÀ and the STRAT

Winter Grand Circle in December, part 11: Friday night, December 24, to Sunday night, December 26, 2021

Las Vegas at Christmas: the Bellagio fountains and the Mirage volcano on Christmas Eve, KÀ at MGM Grand on Christmas night, then the Wynn buffet, the Venetian, the Flamingo and Bellagio on the last day, and the view from the STRAT before a late flight out

Why we ended the Grand Circle in Las Vegas

We flew into Las Vegas, picked up a rental car, started with Sedona and the Grand Canyon, looped counterclockwise through Utah’s national parks and drove back to Las Vegas. Since our flight out left from here, the last two days of the Grand Circle went to the city. One night was Christmas Eve; the next day was Christmas. We spent one day on a side trip to Death Valley and gave the evenings and the final day to the Strip.

I had been to Las Vegas before, 14 years earlier, on the way to the Grand Canyon with friends. The streets looked much the same. What caught my eye this time were the giant video billboards covering entire building walls. It felt like the future city of a science fiction movie.

Christmas Eve: the Strip before check-in

On the evening of December 24, we left Zion, had dinner at the In-N-Out in Washington, Utah, and took I-15 across the corner of Arizona into Nevada. Crossing into Nevada sets the clock back an hour. A little after 8 p.m., the lights of Las Vegas started to show beyond the desert.

We reached the Strip around 8:30 p.m. We were tired, but after days of national parks, being back in a city felt good. We put off checking in, parked the car and walked the Strip first. It was Christmas Eve, and every sidewalk was packed.

Bellagio fountains

From the Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas, next door to our hotel, you cross the street and you’re at the lake in front of Bellagio. Around 9:15 p.m., we found a spot at the railing. Right on schedule, the music started and jets of water shot up from the lake. It was our kid’s first fountain show, and they watched with full attention and loved it.

The Bellagio fountain show is free. From 8 p.m. to midnight it runs every 15 minutes; earlier in the day it runs every 30 minutes, starting at 3 p.m. on weekdays and at noon on weekends and holidays. Each song gets its own water pattern, so two or three shows in a row don’t get old. Any spot along the railing works, but from above, say the Eiffel Tower viewing deck at Paris Las Vegas across the street or a Bellagio room, the shapes of the water are much clearer.

Just walking the Strip at night gives you plenty to look at. With a kid, though, long walks late at night are hard going.

Mirage volcano, a show you can’t see anymore

After the fountains, we walked north along the Strip for about 15 minutes. The fountain in front of Caesars Palace glittered under purple lights.

At 10 p.m., the volcano show began on the lake in front of The Mirage. Water surged up between the palm trees as if it were boiling, then columns of fire burst one after another. Our kid couldn’t look away from this very different kind of show.

You can’t see this show anymore. The Mirage, which opened in 1989, closed on July 17, 2024, and the last volcano show ran the night before. A guitar-shaped Hard Rock hotel is planned for the site, with opening set for the fourth quarter of 2027. The Christmas Eve eruption we watched now lives only in our photos.

If you want to see the Strip’s lights on a bigger scale, you can also go up in a helicopter. Night flights over the Strip last a little over 10 minutes and leave every 30 minutes from after sunset until 10:30 p.m.

Past the Piano Bar, back to Bellagio

On the way back, we passed Harrah’s and stopped for a moment to listen to the music drifting out of The Piano Bar.

The Piano Bar at Harrah’s is known as a dueling piano bar: two pianos face each other, and the players trade guest requests back and forth. It serves alcohol, so it’s adults only.

We walked past Caesars Palace and got back to Bellagio just as another show was starting, so we watched once more from the middle of the crowd. On the way to the hotel, the Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas was twinkling with lights.

Our kid said they wanted to see a circus show too, but it was late and the theater was far, so we headed back to the hotel. We hung up stockings for Santa’s presents and collapsed into bed. Opening those presents the next morning is part of the Death Valley post.

Where we stayed: Bally’s, now Horseshoe Las Vegas

We spent both nights at Bally’s Las Vegas, right in the middle of the Strip. In December 2022 it became Horseshoe Las Vegas. It’s in the same spot. Paris Las Vegas is next door, the Flamingo is across Flamingo Road, and Bellagio and Caesars Palace are across the Strip. On Christmas Eve and again on Christmas night, we walked everywhere. The room was clean. On Christmas morning, before we left for Death Valley, we picked up breakfast at Nosh Deli inside the hotel.

Prices on the Strip swing widely, even between neighboring hotels. We picked the center because it’s easy to get around on foot. If KÀ is the reason for your trip, MGM Grand has the theater. If you want to watch the fountains from your room, Bellagio has fountain-view rooms.

Christmas night: Cirque du Soleil’s KÀ

On Christmas morning, still half asleep, our kid couldn’t stop staring at a circus billboard outside the window. I remembered the request from the night before and looked it up. Cirque du Soleil’s KÀ had seats for that night’s show. We bought tickets on the spot and drove off to Death Valley.

We hurried back from Death Valley and dropped our things at the hotel around 8:45 p.m. I thought we had left with time to spare. MGM Grand seemed close, so we took the street behind the hotel. Then we ran, for a long time, both before we got into MGM Grand and after, looking for the theater entrance. I couldn’t remember the last time I had run like that. We barely made it to the KÀ Theatre entrance about five minutes before the 9:30 p.m. curtain. A little earlier, and we would have caught the preshow in the lobby and in the seating area.

When the show began, the entire stage rose and tilted, and the scenes changed with it. Our kid, who had just woken up, stayed wide-eyed and followed the stage to the end. We couldn’t look away either; we kept wanting to see what came next. Our kid had been to musicals and plays a few times, but never to a show like this.

KÀ lived up to its name as one of the three big Las Vegas shows. The scale and the inventive staging had us marveling again and again. I kept wondering how the person who dreamed this up grew up, and how anyone got it onto a stage. It’s built on circus acts, but there’s a story running through it, good against evil. When an acrobat fell from high up, our kid, worried and puzzled, asked in all innocence, “If they fall like that, who does the next show?”

Photos and video aren’t allowed during the show, so the only pictures we have are from before and after. We hesitated a little before buying those tickets. Years later, it’s still one of the best decisions we’ve made, and I don’t regret it at all. We’ve seen other Cirque du Soleil shows since, but nothing on KÀ’s overwhelming scale. Whenever we see a show, I think back to that night, compare, and remember how good it was. It was dazzling and grand, and the music was good too. Back home, we played the KÀ soundtrack for a long time, and our kid kept asking for it whenever it came to mind.

What KÀ is

KÀ began previews in November 2004 and officially opened at MGM Grand in February 2005. It was directed by Canadian theater director Robert Lepage. The story follows twin siblings separated by war, each on a dangerous journey toward their destiny, and it was the first Cirque du Soleil show with a continuous storyline. The name is said to come from the ancient Egyptian ka, the invisible spiritual double that travels with the body.

What sets KÀ apart is the stage. The KÀ Theatre has no fixed floor. A huge stage hangs over a deep pit, lifted by a crane; it rotates 360 degrees and tilts until it’s nearly vertical. The acrobats fight and climb on a stage standing up like a wall. The theater and show were announced at $165 million: $135 million for the theater and $30 million for the production.

We bought same-day tickets, but on busy dates like Christmas and weekends, the good seats go first. If you’re set on a particular night, book KÀ tickets before you go.

After the show: New York-New York and Hershey’s Chocolate World

We left the theater around 11 p.m. and walked through MGM Grand’s lobby. People were taking pictures in front of the Christmas display, decorated with giant pandas and red poinsettias.

We took the pedestrian bridge to New York-New York, a hotel built around a scaled-down Statue of Liberty and Manhattan skyline. Across the street stood the castle-like Excalibur. I had stayed there back in my student days, and walking past brought that trip back for a moment.

At Hershey’s Chocolate World, on New York-New York’s ground floor, we bought a few chocolates our kid picked out. Then it hit us that we had never really had dinner. Close to midnight, we made do with Panda Express and Sbarro in the food court.

We walked back north along the Strip to the hotel. Well past midnight, the Eiffel Tower at Paris Las Vegas was lit up red for Christmas.

Last day: the Wynn buffet and a hotel crawl

December 26 was the last day of the trip. That morning our kid spent a long time on the bed playing with the presents from Santa. We checked out around 10:30 a.m. and drove to the north end of the Strip. Our flight wasn’t until night, so we gave the day to the Strip’s more distinctive hotels.

The Buffet at Wynn

“We’re in Las Vegas. Let’s do a buffet.” So the first stop was The Buffet at Wynn Las Vegas. We got there a little before noon, and the line was already long. After about 15 minutes we had a table.

There was plenty of seafood, and the dessert spread was especially varied: crêpes made to order, donuts, candy apples. Our kid took a long time choosing at the dessert station. We sat down around noon and stayed about an hour and 45 minutes. These days meals are capped at two hours.

After the buffet we walked through to Encore, which is connected to the Wynn, to see the Christmas decorations. Every hallway had red ornaments and big trees.

Palazzo and the Venetian

A little after 3 p.m. we crossed the street to The Palazzo. The lobby atrium was done up like a Christmas garden, with red ball ornaments and flowers.

The Palazzo connects indoors to The Venetian. Step into the Grand Canal Shoppes and you find an indoor canal under a painted sky, with gondolas gliding by as the gondoliers sing. I had been to the Venetian before. Coming back with my family, I found myself comparing it with the real Venice: what it got right, what it didn’t, how well it had been copied.

The mall also had a brightly colored candy store and a replica of the Welcome to Las Vegas sign. Our kid spent a long time browsing the candy store.

The Venetian and the Palazzo both have large standard rooms, so plenty of families choose them. Stay at the Venetian and you can stroll the canal-side shops in the evening.

Paris, Flamingo and Bellagio on foot

Around 4:30 p.m. we drove back down to the middle of the Strip and walked again. At dusk the Arc de Triomphe stood in front of Paris Las Vegas, and behind it the Eiffel Tower was starting to light up.

Real flamingos at the Flamingo

Around 6 p.m. we went to Flamingo Las Vegas. True to the name, real flamingos live in its garden. The Flamingo Wildlife Habitat is a small garden home to Chilean flamingos, pelicans, turtles and koi, and anyone can walk in for free. The sun had set, so the garden was washed in pink and purple light, with lavish Christmas decorations. It’s open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., so an evening visit works, but you’ll see the birds more clearly in daylight.

Bellagio lobby, conservatory and one more show

Around 6:30 p.m. we went into Bellagio. Dale Chihuly’s glass piece Fiori di Como covers the lobby ceiling like a field of flowers. It’s made of more than 2,000 hand-blown glass flowers, and the name means “flowers of Como.” Bellagio itself is named for a village on Lake Como in Italy.

Next to the lobby, the Conservatory & Botanical Gardens change their entire display with the seasons. We caught the winter display: a huge tree and white polar bears standing among the flower beds. The conservatory is free and open all day, but it closes for a few days at a time while the displays are changed.

When we stepped outside it was 7:15, time for the fountains. Our kid really wanted to see them once more, so we went back to the lake. Our kid loved this show. Since we didn’t know when we’d be back in Las Vegas, our kid said, the hope was that the last memory here with us would be a good one. After that, our kid was unusually well-behaved for a while, then soon went back to normal.

When I checked our step count that day, we had walked far more than on any national park trail, which felt a little ironic. Las Vegas is an easy, unstructured place to wander between buffets and hotels, but each hotel is so big that you end up walking more than you expect. Bring comfortable shoes.

The last view from the STRAT

Around 7:50 p.m. we pulled up at the STRAT, at the north end of the Strip. It used to be the Stratosphere and took its current name in 2020. At 1,149 feet (350 m), it is the tallest freestanding observation tower in the United States. It was our first time up.

The elevator took us straight up to the indoor observation deck on the 108th floor. The windows tilt outward, and if you lean against them the Strip drops away under your feet. Our kid pressed up against the glass and looked down for a long time. We bought a snack on the deck and took a break.

One floor up, the 109th floor is the outdoor deck. At the very top are thrill rides that swing you out past the edge of the tower. Our kid was too young for those, so we skipped them, but standing in the wind looking at the Strip at night was plenty.

You can buy deck tickets on the spot, but buying a STRAT observation deck ticket ahead lets you skip the ticket line. For a trip with adults only, there’s also SkyJump, which drops you from the 108th floor.

Returning the rental car and a late flight out

We came down from the tower a little after 9 p.m. On the way to the airport we stopped for gas, and just after 10 p.m. we returned the rental car, the one that had carried us around the Grand Circle for 10 days.

We reached our gate around 11:30 p.m. The Christmas decorations were still up by the boarding area. The plane took off just before midnight, and the grid of Las Vegas lights spread out below the window, then fell away.

Shows for next time: O and Sphere

After KÀ, the first thing I’d look up on a return trip is the show schedule. Next time I’d like to see O at Bellagio and something at the newer Sphere.

O is one of the best-known Cirque du Soleil shows on the Strip and often mentioned alongside KÀ. It has run in its own theater at Bellagio since 1998, on a stage filled with water, with acrobats moving between the pool and the air. The name comes from the sound of eau, French for water. It’s in the same hotel as the fountains we watched on Christmas Eve, so it’s easy to plan a night around the fountain show and then the theater.

Sphere is a ball-shaped venue that opened in September 2023 right next to the Venetian. It stands more than 360 feet (110 m) tall, and its entire outer surface is an LED screen, so at night you can see a giant eyeball or a globe hanging over the Strip from almost anywhere. Inside, the seats are wrapped by an enormous screen that curves up over your head. On days without concerts, it screens The Wizard of Oz at Sphere, the film reworked for that screen, every day. When we visited in 2021, it was still under construction.

More from Las Vegas: day trips

We drove the Grand Circle and ended in Las Vegas, but you can also do it the other way around: base yourself in Las Vegas and visit the nearby parks one day at a time. Death Valley is a two-hour drive, as we did it, and the Grand Canyon, Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend can be done in a single day on a guided day tour from Las Vegas.

FAQ

What time is the Bellagio fountain show?

Every 15 minutes from 8 p.m. to midnight. Earlier in the day it runs every 30 minutes, starting at 3 p.m. on weekdays and at noon on weekends and holidays. It’s free and needs no reservation. We watched it twice on Christmas Eve and once more on our last evening.

Can you still see the Mirage volcano?

No. The Mirage closed on July 17, 2024, and the last volcano show was the night before. A guitar-shaped Hard Rock hotel is going up on the site, with an opening targeted for the fourth quarter of 2027.

Is KÀ OK for kids?

Children 3 and older are admitted. There are loud noises, dark scenes and fight scenes, so if your kid scares easily, tell them what to expect. Ours watched until the very end, even at a 9:30 p.m. show. The show runs 90 minutes with no intermission, so make a restroom stop before you go in.

When should I buy KÀ tickets?

We bought ours on the morning of Christmas Day. On weekdays you can get same-day tickets, but around Christmas and on weekends the good seats go first. If you want to choose your seats, buy KÀ tickets in advance. KÀ has been announced to run through November 2026, so check the dates first.

What other Las Vegas shows are worth seeing besides KÀ?

Among Cirque du Soleil shows, O at Bellagio is the one most often recommended alongside KÀ. It’s performed on a water-filled stage, so it feels completely different. At Sphere, which opened in 2023, The Wizard of Oz screens every day, even on days without concerts.

What can you see for free in Las Vegas with kids?

The Bellagio fountains, the Bellagio Conservatory, the Chihuly glass flowers in the Bellagio lobby, the bird habitat at the Flamingo, and the indoor canal shops at the Venetian and Palazzo are all free. Our kid liked the fountains best.

Where should you stay in Las Vegas?

On a first visit, the middle of the Strip is easiest. At the end of our Grand Circle road trip we stayed at Horseshoe Las Vegas (formerly Bally’s) and walked to Bellagio, Paris Las Vegas, Caesars Palace and the Flamingo. Each hotel is huge, though, so even getting to the one across the street takes about 10 minutes. If you plan to see KÀ, MGM Grand is a good choice too.

In short

• How long we stayedWe arrived at 8:30 p.m. on December 24 and left close to midnight on the 26th. One of those days went to Death Valley.
• Best partKÀ on Christmas night. For our kid, the Bellagio fountains
• Good to knowThe KÀ theater is deep inside MGM Grand, so leave early. A day of hotel-hopping means more walking than the national parks.
• Next timeAnother Cirque du Soleil show, like O at Bellagio, and a show at Sphere, the new ball-shaped venue.

Overall, we liked Las Vegas. It’s a city where you can wander freely and easily, from buffets to hotel lobbies. We ended up at KÀ on short notice because of our kid, and with a longer stay we’d have wanted to see other shows too.

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I’ve taken plenty of good road trips, but years later this winter Grand Circle still stays with me as one of the most vivid.

Related posts

Part	Post
Full itinerary	Winter Grand Circle road trip: 10 days by rental car Route, lodging and bookings for all 15 stops
Previous	Death Valley National Park day trip Zabriskie Point and the dunes, on Christmas Day from Las Vegas
Before that	Zion National Park in December A rainy night at Zion Lodge, the Emerald Pools Trail and the Riverside Walk

Map and getting around

The Las Vegas Strip runs along Las Vegas Boulevard from MGM Grand in the south to the STRAT in the north. Horseshoe Las Vegas (formerly Bally’s), where we stayed, sits in the middle, at the intersection with Flamingo Road. Paris Las Vegas is right next door, Bellagio and Caesars Palace are across the street, and to the north come the old Mirage site, the Venetian and Wynn. MGM Grand and New York-New York at the south end are about a 20-minute walk away; the STRAT at the north end is about 15 minutes by car. The airport, Harry Reid International, sits just southeast of the Strip.

What we booked and packed

Bookings

• Las Vegas hotelWe booked ahead because of the Christmas holiday and stayed two nights.Horseshoe Las Vegas on Expedia
• KÀWe bought tickets the morning of the show. Over the holidays, buying ahead is the safer bet.KÀ tickets on GetYourGuide
• The STRAT SkyPodWe bought tickets at the tower.SkyPod tickets on GetYourGuide
• Rental carPicked up at the airport, driven around the Grand Circle and returned at the airport on the last night.Las Vegas airport rental cars on Trip.com

What to pack

• Comfortable shoesOn our hotel-crawl day we walked more than on any national park trail.
• A puffer or warm jacketThe Strip at night in December and the outdoor deck on the 109th floor were chilly.
• Christmas stockingsEven on the road, we hung them on Christmas Eve.