elsewheremostly · Portugal · March 17–30, 2024 · 13 nights, 14 days
From hilly Lisbon to the golden cliffs of the south, through walled towns to riverside Porto. Thirteen nights with our kid
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What this is: the route and day-by-day plan from our family’s two weeks in Portugal (13 nights, 14 days), a trip we spent a long time planning. We started in Lisbon, drove south to the Algarve coast, worked our way north through small towns in the middle of the country and finished in Porto. Below: where we went each day and in what order, the full days and the slow ones, and the places we saved for next time.
Route by where we slept · 13 nightsDates are check-in to check-out. 🚗 rows show that day’s drive to the next bed, distance and time per Google Maps
- 3/17 12:55 p.m.via Brussels ✈ in Lisbon airportBrussels Airlines
- 3/17–3/21Lisbon4 nightsChiado and Baixa, Belém, day trip to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais
- 🚗 about 280 km (174 mi) · about 2 h 50 minPicked up the rental and headed south. Lunch in Ourique
- 3/21–3/23Algarve2 nightsBeach resort near Albufeira. Lagos rock coast, Alvor beach
- 🚗 about 280 km (174 mi) · about 3 h 25 minAlte waterfall, cork oak country, Évora
- 3/23–3/24Vendas Novas1 nightA B&B about 57 km (35 mi) west of Évora, on the way to Óbidos
- 🚗 about 280 km (174 mi) · about 3 hÓbidos, Nazaré
- 3/24–3/25Coimbra1 nightUniversity town. Hotel in the city
- 🚗 about 160 km (99 mi) · about 2 hCosta Nova, Aveiro
- 3/25–3/30Porto5 nightsCar returned 3/26, then walking and Bolt rides
- 3/30 12:55 p.m.Porto airport ✈ out via Brussels
13 nights totalLisbon 4 · Algarve 2 · Vendas Novas 1 · Coimbra 1 · Porto 5One-way rental for six days · about 1,130 km (702 mi) · about 13 h 45 min behind the wheel, return day included
- WhenLate March, timed to our kid’s spring break. The low season was winding down, so hotels and the rental car were fairly cheap.
- BookingWe set the two-week route in advance.We left a few days in the middle flexible and booked those beds as we went. If you can book everything ahead, the trip will feel less rushed.
- Where we stayedLisbon 4 nights · downtown apartment-style place for 3 nights (self check-in), then a small hotel in Baixa for 1Albufeira 2 nights · five-star resort Wine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar)Vendas Novas 1 night · MIX inn B&BCoimbra 1 night · four-star hotel NH Coimbra Dona InêsPorto 5 nights · Airbnb apartment
- WeatherMarch 17–25: clear most days, Lisbon highs of 21–26°C (70–79°F)March 26–30: gray and rainy most days, Porto highs around 14–15°C (57–59°F)
- WhoThe three of us: my wife, me and our kid, then in elementary school
In this post

When I was living in Europe, some courses weren’t spread across a whole semester but taught intensively in a single week. They’re called block courses or intensive courses: a professor teaches Monday to Friday at one university, then moves on the next week to a university in another country to teach a different course. Someone once asked one of these professors, who taught in cities all over Europe, “If you had to pick just one place in Europe to live, where would it be?” He named Portugal without hesitating.
Friends who lived in Europe said much the same whenever Portugal came up: it’s a wonderful country to travel. The weather is good, the food is delicious, the people are kind, and you get cities and nature together. But I’d never been, and for a long time Portugal was only a vague idea to me. What kind of place was it, that people who had lived in Europe for years all called it somewhere they’d want to stay?
We lived in western Europe for a few years, but travel always came with priorities. Nearby countries first, famous cities first, and Portugal kept getting pushed to next time. I figured we’d get there someday, but we left Europe without ever going. Maybe that’s why, more than with other places, missing Portugal left a real regret. This time, our family finally got to go together to the country I’d had in mind for so long. This post is our 2-week Portugal itinerary, the route as we actually drove it.
For two weeks we had espresso and an egg tart nearly every day. We looked down on green water between golden cliffs, stood in the monastery where Vasco da Gama is buried, walked through a walled village that smelled of flowers and crossed the Douro on foot over a two-level iron bridge. And in shops and restaurants, people were kind, almost without exception.
Why Portugal for spring break
We went in March, during our kid’s spring break. When I checked March weather for the places we were considering, a lot of them were still chilly, so we leaned toward southern Europe. It came down to Portugal, Malta and Sicily, and we chose Portugal, the one we’d wanted to see for years.
Summer (June to August) is high season in Portugal, and November through March, when the ocean is cold and rain is more frequent, counts as low season. Late March is the tail end of it. That meant fairly cheap rooms and a fairly cheap car, and some breathing room even at the big sights.
Lisbon and Porto are about 300 km (186 mi) apart, around three hours by car, and Albufeira, farther south, is about 550 km (342 mi) from Porto, a little over five hours’ drive. So early in the trip the south was already warm, and our kid could play in the sea even though the water was on the cold side.
Our 2-week Portugal itinerary, the route
We spent a long time deciding which city to fly into and which to fly out of. After comparing fares both ways, we flew into busy Lisbon and out of slightly calmer Porto.
The outline: four days in Lisbon, then a rental car south to the Algarve, back up through inland Évora and the small towns near the west coast, and on to Porto in the north. We picked the car up in Lisbon and dropped it in Porto, so we never had to double back. For background on the stops beyond what we saw, a Portugal guidebook is handy to keep in the car.
Day by day, where we went
| Date | Main stops | Where we slept |
|---|---|---|
| 3/17Sun | ✈ in Arrive in Lisbon → walk Chiado and Baixa → Santa Justa Lift | Lisbondowntown apartment-style stay |
| 3/18Mon | LX Factory → SNBA gallery → sunset at São Jorge Castle → Praça do Comércio | Lisbon |
| 3/19Tue | Full daySintra (Quinta da Regaleira, Pena Palace) → Cabo da Roca → Cascais → Time Out Market | Lisbon |
| 3/20Wed | Belém: Jerónimos Monastery, Pastéis de Belém, Coach Museum, Belém Tower, Monument to the Discoveries | Lisbonmoved to a hotel in Baixa |
| 3/21Thu | 🚗 Pick up rental → lunch in Ourique → Albufeira resort and beach | Albufeira |
| 3/22Fri | Slow dayPonta da Piedade, Lagos → Portimão → Alvor beach → resort beach and pool | Albufeira |
| 3/23Sat | Longest driveAlte waterfall → cork oak country → Évora | Vendas Novasjust a bed on the way |
| 3/24Sun | Óbidos → Nazaré → Coimbra | Coimbra |
| 3/25Mon | Coimbra (university hill, Portugal dos Pequenitos) → Costa Nova → Aveiro → Porto | Porto |
| 3/26Tue | Return rental → São Bento Station → Luís I Bridge | Porto |
| 3/27Wed | Slow dayMatosinhos beach → Afurada → Crystal Palace Gardens | Porto |
| 3/28Thu | Bolhão Market → Dom Henrique Bridge → Gaia riverfront → Clérigos light show | Porto |
| 3/29Fri | Ribeira → Porto Cathedral → Gaia → fado show | Porto |
| 3/30Sat | Porto airport ✈ out 12:55 p.m. via Brussels | Departure |
Tap a date to jump to that day. Drive distances and times are Google Maps route estimates (typical traffic, checked October 2026) and may differ a little from real life. Times in the daily plans come from photo timestamps.
Full days, slow days and what we saved for next time
We didn’t spread the two weeks evenly. Some days packed in several places; some days we stayed put. If you’re working out where to put the pauses in your own plan, this is how ours fell.
Full days
- Day 3 · 3/19 Sintra, Cabo da Roca, Cascais A 9 a.m. train to Sintra for Quinta da Regaleira and Pena Palace, then a taxi out to Cabo da Roca and the beach at Cascais. We wrapped up at Time Out Market after 10 p.m.
- Days 7–9 · 3/23–25 Three small-town days Two or three stops a day on the way north. The 23rd, Albufeira to Alte waterfall to Évora, was the longest drive at about 280 km (174 mi). On the 25th we went through Coimbra, Costa Nova and Aveiro and drove into Porto in the rain.
Slow days
- Day 6 · 3/22 Algarve The rock coast at Lagos in the morning, then a long afternoon on the beach in front of the resort and in the pool.
- Day 11 · 3/27 Porto Short trips to Matosinhos beach and the fishing village of Afurada. When the rain picked up, we went back early and ate cake from a bakery near the apartment.
Saved for next time
- Day 6 Benagil Cave by boat The Algarve’s signature sea cave, with a round hole in the roof that lets the sun pour in. We’d already seen plenty of arches at Lagos, the boat tours don’t let you get off inside the cave, and in March rough seas can cancel sailings, so we spent the time elsewhere.
- Day 9 University of Coimbra Portugal’s oldest university, founded in 1290 and moved to Coimbra in 1537. It’s known for the baroque Joanina Library (Biblioteca Joanina) and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013. We couldn’t find parking, so we drove slowly past and took in the atmosphere from the car.
- Day 10 Livraria Lello A bookstore opened in 1906, famous for its curving red wooden staircase and widely called “the Harry Potter bookstore,” though J.K. Rowling said in 2020 she had never been inside. The line was long when we passed, so we only saw the outside.
- Days 10–14 Douro Valley wineries near Porto The valley where port wine comes from is a UNESCO-listed wine region (2001) of terraced vineyards, and plenty of day tours combine winery tastings with a river cruise. We returned the car the day after reaching Porto and spent our time exploring the city slowly with our kid.
Lisbon in four days, on foot between hills and trams
Lisbon (Lisboa) is built on seven hills, so every street seems to go up or down, with yellow trams rattling between them. We did the city without a car: mostly walking, buses and trams for the hills, and Bolt (a ride-hailing app like Uber) for anything farther. The sky was clear the day we arrived. Service in shops and restaurants was friendly to begin with, and we came away with the impression that people nearly always went a step or two further.
- 3/17Arrival, walking Chiado and Baixa, Santa Justa Lift viewpoint
- 3/18LX Factory, sunset at São Jorge Castle, Praça do Comércio
- 3/19Day trip to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais Full day
- 3/20Belém and its Age of Discovery landmarks
🛏 Where we stayedApartment-style stay below Chiado 3 nights (self check-in) → last night at a small hotel in Baixa
Color keyTowns and neighborhoodsSightsFood and cafésWhere we sleptAirports, stores, rental carPhotos are grouped in the order we saw things that day.
Day 1
March 17 (Sun) · Arrival, Chiado and Baixa
We landed around lunchtime and wandered Chiado and Baixa with no plan. At dusk we went up the Santa Justa Lift and looked out over Lisbon on our first night.
Lisbon airport → apartment (Chiado) → Baixa side streets → Santa Justa LiftAirport transfer, then on foot
🛏 Where we sleptApartment-style stay below Chiado night 1 of 3
- Land at Lisbon airport
- 🚐 Airport transfer, about 30 min
- Drop bags at an apartment-style stay just below Chiado, right in the center. Self check-in.
- Wander Chiado and Baixa. Chiado is the hilltop neighborhood of bookstores, cafés and theaters; Baixa is the lower old town, rebuilt on a neat grid after the 1755 earthquake. We had our first egg tarts (pastel de nata) and walked down Pink Street (Rua Nova do Carvalho), painted pink from curb to curb. It’s the kind of landmark that makes a new city easy to navigate.
- Found a Vodafone store downtown and bought SIM cards. Tracking down the store ate a chunk of our first afternoon.
- Santa Justa Lift (Elevador de Santa Justa). An iron elevator linking Baixa below with Largo do Carmo above; when it opened in 1902 it was ordinary public transit. We stood in line for close to 50 minutes. The top is a viewing deck, and we stayed from dusk into the night, looking over the city and the lights of São Jorge Castle. The lift has been out of service since September 2025, with no reopening date announced yet (RFM, September 2026). Carris’s official site also lists the viewpoint at the top as temporarily closed, so check before you go (checked October 2026). For a similar view in the meantime, the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara above Chiado looks out over Baixa and São Jorge Castle. The Glória funicular that used to run up to it has also been stopped since its September 2025 accident, so you’ll need to walk up.
- Portuguese seafood rice, arroz de marisco (Arroz de Marisco). Brothy, like rice in a seafood stew, so it tasted familiar to us. We also had clams cooked with garlic and cilantro. Our kid’s pick for best moment of the day
Arriving in Lisbon · Pink Street


Santa Justa Lift and the deck on top · seafood rice dinner



Tip
- Set up an eSIM before you fly and your first afternoon goes to sightseeing, not to finding a phone store.
Day 2
March 18 (Mon) · LX Factory and sunset at São Jorge Castle
National museums close on Mondays, so we took it slow at LX Factory and a gallery that was open. In the evening we watched the sun go down over the Tagus from São Jorge Castle.
LX Factory → SNBA gallery → São Jorge Castle → Praça da Figueira → Praça do ComércioTaxi, bus with the Lisboa Card
🛏 Where we sleptApartment-style stay below Chiado night 2 of 3
- LX Factory. Small shops packed into an old factory complex. Lunch nearby was cod and duck, and it was good.
- SNBA gallery (Sociedade Nacional de Belas Artes). Lisbon’s national museums and monuments close on Mondays, so we looked at paintings here and rested in the café.
- 🚌 BusUp the hill on the Lisboa Card
- São Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge). In 2024 the castle wasn’t covered by the Lisboa Card, so we paid separately. The card’s official site now lists it as included, so check before you buy. Peacocks were everywhere, and the ones perched up in the trees stuck with me. At dusk the city and the Tagus River (Tejo) turned red, and it was beautiful.Our kidAfter hearing about the gun ports in the castle walls, our kid spent more than two hours, and part of the next day, explaining how he would have held off the enemy.
- Sushi dinner on Praça da Figueira, then the Rua Augusta Arch (Arco da Rua Augusta) at the end of Baixa’s main street
- Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s big square on the Tagus. Vendors were selling LED propeller toys you launch with a rubber band; they spin back down glowing. Our kid bought one and ran around launching it until late.
LX Factory · SNBA gallery



São Jorge Castle · Praça da Figueira


Tips
- National museums and monuments close on Mondays That includes Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower and the Coach Museum.
- What works on a Monday Shopping spots like LX Factory, São Jorge Castle (open daily), viewpoints and trams.
That glowing toy from Praça do Comércio
You launch it with a rubber band and it spins back down lit up. Not the exact one our kid bought.
Lisbon is a city that keeps old things close rather than fixing or replacing them. You see it in the calçada portuguesa, sidewalks set by hand one stone at a time, and in old facades left as they are, gaps where tiles fell off and all. Looking at one of those walls, our kid said:
“I think the European way fits me. They respect the people from the old days.”
Day 3
March 19 (Tue) · Day trip to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais
A morning train to Sintra for Quinta da Regaleira and Pena Palace, then out to Cabo da Roca, the western tip of mainland Europe, and the beach at Cascais. With so much we wanted to see, it was our busiest day, and looking back, there’s nothing we’d cut.
Rossio Station → Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra → Pena Palace → Cabo da Roca → Cascais → LisbonTrain, tuk-tuk, Bolt
🛏 Where we sleptApartment-style stay below Chiado night 3 of 3
- Sintra · morning to early afternoon
- Train to Sintra from Rossio Station. The day we went, they ran about twice an hour.
- 🚆 Train, about 45 min
- Arrive in Sintra. Windier and colder than Lisbon, so the first stop was a jacket for our kid. Then on foot through town and up the hill
- Quinta da Regaleira. The spiral well and pitch-dark grotto tunnels
- Back down in town for a snack. We passed the Piriquita bakery and had an egg tart each at Fábrica da Nata.
- 🛺 Tuk-tuk, about 15 min
- Pena Palace (Palácio da Pena). The royal summer palace on top of the Sintra hills, painted yellow, blue and red like something out of a storybook
- Cabo da Roca · Cascais · afternoon
- 🚕 Taxi, about 45 min
- Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point of mainland Europe. Below red cliffs, the sea has that green tint you probably picture when you think of Portugal. Our kid stared at it for a long time, amazed that it looked green both up close and far out.
- 🚕 Taxi, about 35 min
- Cascais. 16°C (61°F), but no wind, so it felt warm. Other kids were splashing around in small groups, and ours ran straight into the water.
- Lisbon · night
- 🚕 Taxi, about 35 min
- Back in Lisbon for dinner at UMA, a seafood-rice spot we’d been recommended. Afterward, a ride on Tram 28.
- Time Out Market. A food hall of well-known Lisbon kitchens in an old market building, open until midnight. That night there was a dance party, with people dancing to the music. We stood holding ice cream cones and watched for ages. Quite a scene.
Rossio Station · Sintra Town Hall


Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira · Pena Palace



Cabo da Roca


Cascais


Seafood rice · Tram 28 · Time Out Market



Tips
- Sintra is windier and cooler than Lisbon. Bring an extra layer.
- Entry to the inside of Pena Palace is by 30-minute time slot. More under “Bookings and paperwork” below.
- Lots of people do Sintra and Cabo da Roca on a tour, which saves you juggling trains, tuk-tuks and taxis. There are day tours from Lisbon to Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais that cover the same ground in one day.
At Time Out Market, after watching the dancers for a long while, our kid announced:
“It’s too much party. Too much romantic! Their legs move like a centipede.”
Day 4
March 20 (Wed) · Belém
Our big Lisbon sightseeing day. In Belém, where the Age of Discovery left its mark, we worked through the monastery, the tower and the monument one by one. We also tried the egg tarts from the bakery known as the original.
Downtown → Jerónimos Monastery → Pastéis de Belém → Coach Museum → Belém Tower → Monument to the Discoveries → downtownTaxi
🛏 Where we sleptSmall hotel in Baixa 1 night · changed lodging
- Checkout day at the apartment. With self check-in there was no one to hold our bags, so we used a luggage storage app to drop them at a place nearby.
- Walked the Tagus waterfront, Praça do Comércio and Rossio Square.
- 🚕 Taxi, about 15 min
- Jerónimos Monastery (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos). Home to the tomb of Vasco da Gama, who opened the sea route to India, and covered in Manueline carving of ropes and sea motifs. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Belém Tower.
- Pastéis de Belém. Baking egg tarts since 1837 from the monks’ recipe, and widely known as the original
- Lunch at Adega de Belém near the monastery
- National Coach Museum (Museu Nacional dos Coches). Bigger than we expected.
- Belém Tower (Torre de Belém). While we waited in line, our kid checked the river’s edge for fish.
- Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos). A ship’s-prow monument carved with Prince Henry the Navigator leading the explorers and mapmakers of the era. Down by the Tagus in front of it, our kid dropped the hand line he’d brought and got lost for a long time watching the fish.
- 🚕 Taxi
- Collected our bags and moved to a small hotel in Baixa for the night, right next to the Santa Justa Lift we’d ridden on day one. Dinner nearby in Baixa
Tagus waterfront · Jerónimos Monastery · Pastéis de Belém



Coach Museum · Belém Tower



Monument to the Discoveries · dinner in Baixa


Tip
- If you’re switching lodging and there’s nowhere to leave bags, a luggage storage app is the easy fix. A few are listed under “Bookings and paperwork” below.
The Algarve in two days, golden cliffs by rental car
The morning we left Lisbon for the Algarve, Portugal’s southern coast, we picked up a car at a downtown Europcar branch. It was a Toyota Yaris Cross hybrid with 19 km (12 mi) on the odometer, per the contract and the dashboard. A brand-new car, which made the whole road trip easier on the nerves. Once we cleared the city the roads went quiet and rural, and I remembered how much fun it is just to drive.
The Algarve is a coastline of golden cliffs, rock arches and beaches of every size, and a favorite vacation spot for Europeans. We spent two nights at a resort on the beach, heading out in the mornings to see the rock coast and spending afternoons at the beach and the pool.
- 3/21Rental car south, lunch in Ourique, beach resort near Albufeira
- 3/22Lagos rock coast, Alvor beach, the resort beach and pool Slow day
🛏 Where we stayedWine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar) 2 nights · five-star resort west of Albufeira, right on Salgados beach. Indoor and outdoor pools, breakfast and dinner included
Renting a car in Lisbon
We picked up downtown and dropped off in Porto. Whether a car can be returned in another city shows up on each listing when you book.
Booking from Canada? See prices in Canadian dollars
Day 5
March 21 (Thu) · Lisbon → Ourique → Albufeira (about 280 km/174 mi)
A new rental car from Lisbon and a long drive south. Lunch in the small town of Ourique, then the beach resort near Albufeira by late afternoon.
Europcar Lisbon → highway rest stop → Ourique → Albufeira resort → beach → shopping mallFirst rental day, about 2 h 50 min of driving
🛏 Where we sleptWine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar) night 1 of 2 · on Salgados beach, west of Albufeira
- 🚕 Taxi to Europcar
- Pick up the car at the downtown Europcar Lisbon branch
- 🚗 about 190 km (118 mi) · about 1 h 50 minwith a rest stop
- Short break at a highway rest stop
- Ourique, a small town on the way south. Lunch at A Toca: a chickpea, egg and cod dish the server recommended
- 🚗 about 88 km (55 mi) · about 1 h
- Arrive at the five-star Wine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar) on the coast west of Albufeira. A palm-lined path and a boardwalk through the dunes lead straight to Salgados beach (Praia dos Salgados). Indoor and outdoor pools; we booked with breakfast and dinner.
- Salgados beach. Too chilly for swimming, but our kid explained that cold water only hurts the first time, then it’s fine, and went straight in.
- Groceries at Aldi and the Algarve Shopping mall
Europcar Lisbon · rest stop



Ourique · heading south



Resort palm path · Salgados beach



Aldi · the mall


Tips
- Swim caps were required at this resort’s pools. Pack them for everyone, kids included, so you’re not hunting for one locally. The hotel sells them too, but we bought ours the next day at Decathlon in Portimão.
- Aldi and the mall in Albufeira were open until 11 p.m., so a late arrival still meant groceries.
The resort we stayed at near Albufeira
It was called VidaMar when we stayed; it has since been renamed.
Day 6
March 22 (Fri) · Lagos, Portimão, Alvor (about 130 km/81 mi)
We looked down on Ponta da Piedade in Lagos, where golden cliffs and rock arches run out into the sea. The afternoon was slow, at the resort beach and pool.
Albufeira → Ponta da Piedade, Lagos → Pinheiros beach → Decathlon Portimão → Alvor beach → AlbufeiraAbout 2 h 10 min of driving
🛏 Where we sleptWine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar) night 2 of 2
- Breakfast at the resort
- Head out
- 🚗 west, about 54 km (34 mi) · about 45 min
- Ponta da Piedade in Lagos. A headland of golden cliffs where waves have carved sea stacks, arches and tunnels. It’s one of the most striking stretches of the Algarve coast, so we put the drone up.
- 🚗 about 7 min
- Pinheiros beach (Praia dos Pinheiros). The path down was closed the day we went, so we looked out from the clifftop.
- 🚗 about 29 km (18 mi) · about 27 minstopped at Decathlon in Portimão on the way for swim caps for the resort pool
- 🚗 about 6 km (4 mi) · about 13 min
- Três Irmãos beach (Praia dos Três Irmãos) in Alvor, a wide stretch of sand ending in rock outcrops. A quick 20-minute walk.
- 🚗 about 38 km (24 mi) · about 37 min
- Back at the resort: a walk on the beach and a long stretch in the indoor pool.
- Live music in the lobby. The songs were ones we knew, so we stayed a long time.
Resort lobby · breakfast · evening music



Ponta da Piedade

Pinheiros beach · Alvor beach · the beach at the resort



The plan had been to take a boat the next day to Benagil Cave (Algarve’s famous sea cave), where sunlight falls through a round opening in the roof; it’s the image most people have of the Algarve. We went back and forth on it until the end. But after a full morning of beautiful arches and rock towers at Lagos, that alone felt like plenty. We also learned that the boat tours just loop through the cave without letting you off, so we gave that time to other places.
Since August 2024, new rules mean you can no longer land on the beach inside Benagil Cave or swim in. You can only enter on licensed boats or guided kayak trips. In the low season (November to March) rough seas mean fewer sailings or none at all, so if you’re going then, check that tours are running before you set out.
Seeing Benagil Cave by boat
Boat tours leave from Albufeira. In a rough-sea month like March, check that they’re running first.
Central Portugal in three days, walled towns and a university city
Central Portugal packs a lot within an hour or two of driving: Óbidos, a medieval village inside its walls; Coimbra, an old university city; and Nazaré, a beach town with enormous waves. Coming up from the south, you also pass walled Évora. The highways between towns were in great shape, with little traffic, and easy to drive. We stopped wherever something caught our eye and drove to good restaurants on the edges of small towns. That kind of trip only works with a car. In Nazaré and Coimbra we did circle a few blocks several times looking for parking.
- 3/23Alte waterfall, cork oak country, Évora. One night just past Évora in Vendas Novas Longest drive
- 3/24Óbidos and Nazaré, then a night in Coimbra
- 3/25Coimbra, Costa Nova and Aveiro, then on to Porto
🛏 Where we stayedMIX inn B&B in Vendas Novas 1 night · on the way from Évora to Óbidos → NH Coimbra Dona Inês 1 night · four-star hotel in Coimbra
Day 7
March 23 (Sat) · Alte waterfall → Évora (about 280 km/174 mi)
We left the Algarve, stopped at Alte waterfall and followed the cork oak roads north to walled Évora. The longest drive of the trip.
Albufeira → Alte waterfall → cork oak country → Évora → Vendas NovasAbout 3 h 25 min of driving
🛏 Where we sleptMIX inn B&B 1 night · Vendas Novas
- Alte · morning
- One more swim in the indoor pool before checkout. Our kid offered to give us a swimming lesson.
- Checkout
- 🚗 about 36 km (22 mi) · about 36 min
- Alte waterfall (Queda do Vigário), in the small inland village of Alte. Water falls between red rock walls into a green pool. Our kid went in wearing just his swimsuit, caught tadpoles and let them go. After the falls we walked along the water in the village for a bit.
- Cork oak country · afternoon
- 🚗 about 189 km (117 mi) · about 2 h 5 minThrough the cork oak woods of the Alentejo plains
- Évora · evening
- Arrive in Évora. The whole old town inside the walls is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so we parked outside the walls and walked in.
- Chapel of Bones (Capela dos Ossos). A small chapel whose walls and pillars are covered with the bones of thousands of people. The inscription over the entrance reads, roughly, “We bones that are here are waiting for yours” (Nós ossos que aqui estamos pelos vossos esperamos).
- The 1st-century Roman Temple (Templo Romano), with its Corinthian columns still standing. We saw Évora Cathedral only from outside.
- Portas de Moura fountain (Fonte das Portas de Moura). Our kid played with the water for a good while.
- Dinner at WOK KING, an Asian buffet on the edge of Évora. Plenty of fresh seafood, and all three of us left happy. Portuguese buffets turned out to be good enough that we found another one in Coimbra the next night.
- 🚗 about 57 km (35 mi) · about 42 min
- Arrive at MIX inn, a B&B in Vendas Novas. We picked it because it was on the way to Óbidos. The owner was kind, and the house had an unusual layout.
Alte waterfall and village



Cork oak country · Évora streets


Chapel of Bones


Roman Temple · Portas de Moura fountain


Buffet outside Évora


B&B in Vendas Novas


Tips
- Évora’s old town has narrow streets. Leave the car outside the walls and walk in, and parking stops being a problem.
- The Chapel of Bones, Roman Temple, cathedral and Portas de Moura fountain are all walkable from each other. We arrived around 4 p.m. and saw them all before dinner.
Between Alte and Évora, the Alentejo plains are full of cork oaks. Portugal produces roughly half the world’s cork, and the trees aren’t cut down; the bark is stripped once every nine years. Maybe that’s why cork bags, wallets and knickknacks are sold as souvenirs everywhere. We brought a few home.
Day 8
March 24 (Sun) · Óbidos → Nazaré → Coimbra (about 280 km/174 mi)
Through Óbidos, a walled village full of the scent of flowers, and Nazaré, where huge waves roll in, to the university city of Coimbra.
Vendas Novas → Óbidos → Nazaré → Pombal rest stop → CoimbraAbout 3 h of driving
🛏 Where we sleptNH Coimbra Dona Inês 1 night · central Coimbra
- Breakfast at the B&B, then on the road
- 🚗 about 131 km (81 mi) · about 1 h 27 min
- Óbidos. A medieval village inside its walls, also called “the queen’s village” because King Dinis is said to have given it to Queen Isabel in the 13th century. Walking it, I could see why it made a good gift. White houses trimmed with yellow and blue bands line the streets. The path along the top of the walls is narrow and mostly has no railing, so we walked only one section.
- 🚗 about 40 km (25 mi) · about 29 min
- Nazaré. Thanks to a deep underwater canyon offshore, some of the biggest waves in the world roll in here in winter, and surfers come to ride them. We stood a long time watching the waves on North Beach (Praia do Norte), by the lighthouse.
- 🚗 about 108 km (67 mi) · about 1 h 6 minGas stop at the Pombal rest area
- Check in at NH Coimbra Dona Inês, a four-star hotel in Coimbra. Dinner was another buffet, GO CHEF, on the outskirts. Places like this sit just outside town, and that’s when having a car pays off.
Morning at the B&B


Óbidos


Nazaré

Nazaré · the road to Coimbra


Buffet outside Coimbra


Tip
- With kids, walk only a short stretch on top of the Óbidos walls and spend the rest of the time on the lanes inside the village. It’s less stressful.
Spring was arriving, and the whole of Óbidos smelled of flowers. Walking through it, my wife said:
“I wish there were a way to remember a smell.”
At Nazaré, even in late March, the waves were high and heavy. Our kid wrote in his journal that night:
“The waves were about five times bigger than me.”
The hotel we stayed at in Coimbra
Day 9
March 25 (Mon) · Coimbra → Costa Nova → Aveiro → Porto (about 160 km/99 mi)
A miniature park in Coimbra, the striped houses of Costa Nova and the canal city of Aveiro, then a drive into Porto in the rain.
Coimbra university hill → Portugal dos Pequenitos → Costa Nova → Aveiro → PortoAbout 2 h of driving, last leg in a downpour
🛏 Where we sleptAirbnb apartment in Porto night 1 of 5 · residential area, a 20-minute walk from the center
- Coimbra · morning
- Coimbra is a university city, with the University of Coimbra, Portugal’s oldest, up on the hill. There was nowhere to park, so we drove slowly around and took in the place from the car.
- 🚗 about 2 km (1 mi) · about 6 min
- Portugal dos Pequenitos in Coimbra. A miniature theme park opened in 1940, with houses and castles from around Portugal, plus landmarks like Jerónimos Monastery, rebuilt at kid height. One section gathers the traces Portugal left around the world across the oceans, and you get a sense of how the country remembers its glory days, and how it wants to remember them. Lots of local school groups were there. We bought a wooden spinning top as a souvenir.
- Costa Nova · Aveiro · afternoon
- 🚗 about 71 km (44 mi) · about 54 min
- Costa Nova. A beach village of wooden houses painted with colored stripes on white. They started out as fishermen’s storage sheds. Dunes spread out in front of the houses.
- 🚗 about 10 km (6 mi) · about 11 min
- Aveiro, nicknamed “the Venice of Portugal” for the brightly painted moliceiro boats on its canals. They were built to haul seaweed from the lagoon; now they carry visitors around the canals. We walked the canals and the park, tried ovos moles, a traditional sweet made from egg yolks, and had roast suckling pig for dinner.
- 🚗 about 74 km (46 mi) in a downpournormally about 51 min
- Arrive at our Airbnb apartment in Porto
Coimbra university hill


Portugal dos Pequenitos


Costa Nova


Tip
- Parking near the top of the university hill in Coimbra was hard to find. To see the university properly, park at the bottom and walk up.

Aveiro turned out to be a small city of modern buildings and parks along its canals. Low, modern apartment blocks with shops on the ground floor lined the water, and the place looked quiet and easy to live in. In the park, a woman throwing bread to the ducks shared some with our kid. We’d heard that a lot of Europeans name Portugal as where they’d like to retire, and Aveiro was the first place where we thought, we could retire here.
Aveiro and Coimbra in a day from Porto
Without a car, small-group tours from Porto cover both cities in one day. We didn’t take one.
Porto in five days, a river city at walking pace
The weather changed when we got to Porto. In the south it had been warm enough to top 20°C (68°F); in Porto, highs were 14–15°C (57–59°F) with clouds and rain most days. We bought a few more layers at a mall and wore them all week. Even in the rain, Porto is a great city to walk without a plan. Stacked, colorful houses along the Douro, iron bridges over the river, a train station lined with azulejo tiles: there’s plenty to look at under a gray sky.
What to pack for a rainy Porto
Porto in March was chilly, with frequent wind and rain. A light extra layer and a wind-resistant umbrella help.
In Porto we rented an Airbnb. It was roomy for the price. It sat in a residential area about a 20-minute walk from the center, and after a few days we grew fond of it. Getting downtown was easy, and we even ended up with a regular bakery.
- 3/26Return the rental car, São Bento Station, Luís I Bridge
- 3/27Matosinhos beach, Afurada fishing village, Crystal Palace Gardens Slow day
- 3/28Bolhão Market, across Dom Henrique Bridge to the Gaia riverfront, Clérigos light show
- 3/29Ribeira riverfront, Porto Cathedral, fado show
- 3/30Flying out of Porto
🛏 Where we stayedAirbnb apartment in Porto 5 nights · residential area, a 20-minute walk from the center

Day 10
March 26 (Tue) · Returning the car, São Bento Station and the Luís I Bridge
We returned the rental in Porto and switched to walking. We saw São Bento Station, covered in azulejo tiles, and crossed the upper deck of the Luís I Bridge.
Mercadona → return car at Europcar → grocery store → Cordoaria → Clérigos → São Bento Station → Luís I Bridge → NorteShoppingLast drive, then walking and Bolt
🛏 Where we sleptAirbnb apartment in Porto night 2 of 5
- Groceries at Mercadona. A big store with good products.
- Return the car at the Europcar downtown Porto branch
- 🚕 Bolt
- A stop at a grocery store, then lunch back at the apartment
- Cordoaria Garden (Jardim da Cordoaria), the University of Porto museum and the front of Clérigos Church (Igreja dos Clérigos). Nearby Livraria Lello had a long line outside, so we looked at the facade and kept going.
- São Bento Station. The walls of the main hall are covered in blue azulejo tile panels showing scenes from Portuguese history.
- Walked across the upper deck of the Luís I Bridge (Ponte Luís I), a two-level iron bridge over the Douro. The upper deck carries pedestrians and the metro; by day the lower deck is open only to buses, taxis, bikes and pedestrians (since October 2023, other cars may cross from 8 p.m. to 6 a.m.). Partway across, the sun came out and then a squall blew in, and we took a taxi back.
- NorteShopping, open until 11 p.m. Headphones and warm clothes for our kid
Mercadona · returning the car


Rainy streets · around Clérigos


São Bento Station

Luís I Bridge · NorteShopping



Tip
- Livraria Lello requires an entry voucher, and the price comes off any book you buy. You can buy a timed ticket online ahead of time.
A walking tour that ends at Livraria Lello
The line was too long for us, so we saw only the outside. Some walking tours of Porto finish with a visit to the bookstore.
Day 11
March 27 (Wed) · Matosinhos, Afurada and the Crystal Palace Gardens
Short taxi trips to Matosinhos beach and the fishing village of Afurada. The rain got heavier at the Crystal Palace Gardens, so we headed back early. An easy day
Apartment → Matosinhos beach → Afurada → Crystal Palace Gardens → apartmentBolt
🛏 Where we sleptAirbnb apartment in Porto night 3 of 5
- Early lunch at a ramen place near the apartment
- 🚕 about 25 min
- Matosinhos beach (Praia de Matosinhos), a wide sandy beach that counts as Porto’s main stretch of coast. Near the port there’s a street of charcoal-grilled fish restaurants. The wind was fierce, so we ducked into a café on the beach while our kid played soccer outside with other kids.
- 🚕 about 30 min
- Afurada, a fishing village on the south side of the Douro’s mouth, known for restaurants grilling fresh sardines over charcoal. We saw the small fishing museum and walked past the village’s public washhouse (lavadouro).
- 🚕 about 15 min
- Crystal Palace Gardens (Jardins do Palácio de Cristal), laid out where the Crystal Palace stood for the 1865 exhibition. The building is gone, but the gardens are known for views over the Douro and peacocks roaming free. Peacocks and chickens were wandering around when we went, too. The rain picked up, so we left a little early.
- Picked up lime pie and chocolate cake from a bakery near the apartment and spent the evening in.
Ramen · Matosinhos beach



Afurada


Crystal Palace Gardens


Bakery cake · tiles on a side street


Tip
- The Crystal Palace Gardens are free. Even a quick visit for the river view during a break in the rain is worth it.
Day 12
March 28 (Thu) · Bolhão Market, Gaia and the Clérigos light show
Bolhão Market, then across the Dom Henrique Bridge to watch the sunset from the Gaia riverfront. At night, the light show at Clérigos Church.
Bakery → Korean restaurant → Cordoaria → McDonald’s Imperial → Bolhão Market → Rua de Santa Catarina and Majestic Café → Dom Henrique Bridge → Gaia riverfront → lower deck of Luís I Bridge → Clérigos ChurchOn foot
🛏 Where we sleptAirbnb apartment in Porto night 4 of 5
- Cordoaria · Bolhão Market · daytime
- A slow start, a late breakfast at the neighborhood bakery and lunch at a Korean restaurant. On a long trip you end up with a local bakery and a go-to place to eat, and for a little while you feel like you live there.
- Watching gulls and pigeons in Cordoaria Garden
- A break at McDonald’s Imperial. This was the Café Imperial, an art deco café that opened in the 1930s. When McDonald’s moved in in 1995, it kept the eagle over the entrance, the chandeliers and the stained glass, and it’s often called the most beautiful McDonald’s in the world. Expect crowds. It’s near Avenida dos Aliados in front of City Hall, so it fits easily into a walking route. Happy Meals came with Pokémon cards that month, which is why we ended up at McDonald’s more than once in Porto.
- Bolhão Market (Mercado do Bolhão). Porto’s landmark market, dating to 1838, reopened in 2022 after more than four years of renovation. We browsed the fruit stalls and had a glass of white wine.
- Walked the shopping street Rua de Santa Catarina and passed Majestic Café, an ornate café that opened in 1921. J.K. Rowling is said to have written there when she lived in Porto. The line was long, so we just looked from outside.
- Dom Henrique Bridge · Gaia · sunset
- The riverside view of Porto crossing the Dom Henrique Bridge (Ponte Infante Dom Henrique)
- Gaia (Vila Nova de Gaia), across the river from Porto. This is where the port wine (vinho do Porto) cellars are, and rabelo boats that once carried wine barrels float on the river. It’s easy to picture the days when wine came down the Douro by boat. The sun set between the clouds.
- 🚶 Across the lower deck of the Luís I Bridge, then uphill
- Clérigos · night
- The light show at Clérigos Church, the 18th-century baroque church that’s practically Porto’s symbol. We’d booked a date and time in advance on a booking site. Dinner was at Slice of Porto, a pizza place nearby. The friendly man there let our kid spread the tomato sauce on the dough himself, one more of those small extra kindnesses.
Neighborhood bakery · rainy streets


Cordoaria Garden · McDonald’s Imperial



Bolhão Market · Majestic Café



Dom Henrique Bridge · Gaia riverfront


Clérigos Church · light show


Tips
- Port is a fortified wine: grape brandy is added partway through fermentation to stop it, so it stays sweet and strong. You can taste it at the cellars in Gaia.
- Clérigos Tower (Torre dos Clérigos), next to the church, is a bell tower more than 75 m (246 ft) tall, with over 200 steps up to a view across Porto. We didn’t climb it this time.
Clérigos Church at night, and its tower
Day 13
March 29 (Fri) · Ribeira, the cathedral and fado
A rare clear day for walking the Ribeira riverfront and Porto Cathedral. We spent our last night in Porto at a fado show.
Ribeira → Porto Cathedral → Luís I Bridge → Gaia → fado venue → NorteShoppingOn foot, Bolt in the evening
🛏 Where we sleptAirbnb apartment in Porto night 5 of 5
- A clear day, finally. Street performers out, and groups on city tours.
- The Ribeira riverfront, colorful houses lined up along the Douro, and Infante Park. Together with the Luís I Bridge, it’s part of the UNESCO-listed historic center of Porto.
- Porto Cathedral (Sé do Porto) and its museum
- Across the upper deck of the Luís I Bridge to Gaia for dinner at Mamma Bella, an Italian restaurant
- 🚕 Taxi to the venue
- A fado show. We’d booked this one ahead on a booking site too, picking a date and time. Everyone gets a glass of port during the show.
- At the NorteShopping supermarket we picked out jamón, salami and cheese to take home. When we came out, it was pouring.
Ribeira riverfront

Mural building · Infante Park


Porto Cathedral


Gaia


Fado show


NorteShopping


Fado is Portugal’s melancholy folk song, added to UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage in 2011. People who’ve been to Portugal tell you to see a fado show, and they mean it. At our venue, photos and video were allowed, and it’s a show we’ll remember for a long time.
Seeing a fado show in Porto
The guitarists started first, and then the singer (the fadista) walked in through the door and began to sing. Our kid fell asleep partway through, but wrote this in his journal that night:
“First there were guitar players. They had been practicing for a long time. Then suddenly a woman came in. I thought, ‘Wow, she is really late.’”
Our five days in Porto went by slowly, back and forth between the neighborhood bakery, the river and the bridges.
Day 14
March 30 (Sat) · Departure day
A morning taxi to Porto airport. We killed time at the airport playground and boarded the 12:55 p.m. flight via Brussels.
- Bolt from the apartment
- 🚕 about 25 min
- Porto airport. A playground and arcade games made the wait easy. 12:55 p.m. flight via Brussels
Porto airport


Douro Valley wineries near Porto
We returned the car early and didn’t go. Day tours make it doable without one.
Know before you go
Portugal weather in March
| Dates | Where | Daily high | Weather |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3/17–20 | Lisbon | 21–25°C70–77°F | Clear |
| 3/21–22 | Algarve | 20–25°C68–77°F · Faro station | Mostly cloudy |
| 3/23–25 | Central Portugal | 23–26°C73–79°F · Lisbon station | Warm and dry, downpour the night of the 25th |
| 3/26–30 | Porto | 14–15°C57–59°F · mornings 5–10°C (41–50°F) | Rain almost every day |
From daily weather station summaries (WMO Lisbon 08535, Faro 08554, Porto 08545)
In March, the weather in the south and the north of Portugal was quite different. A light jacket was plenty in the south; in Porto we wore several layers. Pack an umbrella.
Average temperatures and rainy days by month
If you’re going in another month, here are the long-term averages. Lisbon and Faro in the south run about the same, while Porto in the north is about 2°C (4°F) cooler year-round and gets more rainy days. March, when we went, is highlighted.
Average daily high (°C)
Rainy days (1 mm or more, monthly average)
IPMA (Portuguese weather service) 1991–2020 climate normals; Porto data from the airport station
What the rental car cost
These are the contract amounts for six days, picked up in Lisbon and returned in Porto. We collected the car at Europcar’s downtown Lisbon branch (Rua Rodrigues Sampaio) and returned it to Europcar’s downtown Porto branch (Rua de Gonçalo Cristóvão).
| Item | Details | Amount (€) |
|---|---|---|
| Rental | 6 days | €70.20 €11.70 a day |
| One-way fee | Lisbon → Porto | €61.00 |
| Toll transponder | Via Verde, 6 days | €10.50 €1.75 a day |
| Road fee | 6 days | €9.00 €1.50 a day |
| VAT | 23% | €34.66 |
From the rental contract. Total €185.36 including VAT (about US$208 at the European Central Bank rate of October 2, 2026, €1 = US$1.12), unlimited mileage. Our credit card covered the car insurance, so we didn’t buy duplicate cover.
One upside of going in March was the price of the car: low season meant €11.70 a day. On return day our card was charged US$197.22, and the next day another US$22.92 came through for tolls. Most Portuguese highways are tolled. With an electronic toll transponder on the rental, you drive through the toll plazas without stopping, and the tolls are billed to your card afterward.
Where we stayed, and other options nearby
We picked a different kind of place in each part of the trip. In Lisbon and Porto, where we stayed longest, we wanted apartments we could live in; on the southern coast, a resort to rest; in the middle, whatever made the next day’s drive easiest. Where we don’t name our lodging, we’ve listed other options nearby.
The nearby options are places we found in the same neighborhoods (October 2026), not places we stayed. Click a hotel name to go to its booking page; the link at the end of each row opens a comparison of stays in that city.
| Area | Where we stayed | Other options nearby |
|---|---|---|
| Lisbon3/17–21 · 4 nights | Apartment-style stay below Chiado 3 nights Self check-inSmall hotel in Baixa 1 night Next to the Santa Justa Lift | Grape Harbor Prata Apartments 4-star aparthotelTempo FLH Hotels Lisboa 3-starThe Visionaire Apartments 4-star aparthotelCompare Lisbon stays |
| Algarve3/21–23 · 2 nights | Wine & Books by the Sea (formerly VidaMar) 2 nights Five-star resort on Salgados beach | Pine Cliffs Village 5-star resortVila Galé Cerro Alagoa 4-star resortCompare Albufeira stays |
| Near Évora3/23 · 1 night | MIX inn B&B 1 night Vendas Novas, on the way to Óbidos | If you’d rather stay inside ÉvoraÉvora Olive Hotel 4-starVila Galé Évora 4-starHilton Garden Inn Évora 4-starCompare Évora stays |
| Coimbra3/24 · 1 night | NH Coimbra Dona Inês 1 night Four-star hotel in the center | Praxis CBR Boutique Hotel 4-starSophia Studios 4-star aparthotelCompare Coimbra stays |
| Porto3/25–30 · 5 nights | Airbnb apartment 5 nights Residential area a 20-minute walk from the center, roomy for the price | Spot Family Apartments 3-star aparthotel, family roomsMemoria Porto FLH Hotels Near Ribeira, 4-starVillage Aparthotel by BOA 4-star aparthotelCompare Porto stays |
Bookings and paperwork
- Flights from North America Lisbon has nonstop service from several East Coast and Canadian cities: Newark (TAP, United) in about 7 hours, Boston (TAP, Delta) in about 6½, Toronto (Air Canada, Air Transat, TAP) in about 7 and Montreal (Air Canada, Air Transat, TAP) in about 7 (schedules as of October 2026). Flying into Lisbon and out of Porto (an open-jaw or multi-city ticket) saves you from driving back. Porto also has nonstops to Newark, New York JFK, Boston and Toronto, with seasonal Montreal flights. We compared fares with the cities swapped, and compared rental prices with different drop-off cities too.
- Time difference Lisbon is five hours ahead of New York and Toronto for most of the year. Europe and North America change their clocks on different dates, so for a couple of weeks in March (North America springs forward on the second Sunday, Portugal on the last Sunday) the gap is four hours. Our trip fell in that window.
- Driver’s license We drove on our Korean licenses plus International Driving Permits. If you’re American, the State Department says you can drive in Portugal on your U.S. license for up to six months; Canada’s travel advisory says a Canadian license works for up to 185 days if you aren’t a resident. An International Driving Permit (from AAA in the U.S., CAA in Canada) can be a useful backup if you’re stopped by police or have an accident. The rental company page we checked didn’t require one, but rules and rental terms vary, so confirm with your rental company before you go (as of October 2026).
- Entry U.S. and Canadian citizens don’t need a visa for stays of up to 90 days in any 180 in the Schengen Area. The EU’s Entry/Exit System (EES), which records fingerprints and a photo at the border, started in October 2025. The ETIAS travel authorization is scheduled to start in the last quarter of 2026, so check the official EU site before you book (as of October 2026).
- Pena Palace Entry to the palace interior is by 30-minute time slot. In high season the good slots reportedly sell out days ahead, so buy from the official seller, Parques de Sintra, on its website. We went on a March weekday and bought tickets on the spot. When we checked again in October 2026 there were several ticket types, so see the official price list for current options.
- Lisboa Card Covers Lisbon’s metro, buses, trams (including Tram 28), funiculars and the Santa Justa Lift, plus CP trains to Sintra and Cascais, and entry to up to 52 museums and sights, including Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower. Pena Palace isn’t included. We used the card for the bus up the hill, and in 2024 we paid separately at São Jorge Castle. When we checked in October 2026, the official site listed castle entry as included (ages 13–15 excepted), so check what’s covered when you buy.
- Clérigos light show and fado We booked both ahead on a booking site, choosing a date and time. Tickets for the Clérigos show and tower are right under the March 28 plan, and a fado show option is in the fado section.
- Luggage storage Luggage storage apps are widely used in Lisbon, which makes them easy. We used one on checkout day from our self check-in apartment. In Lisbon, Bounce, Radical Storage, Stasher and Nannybag let you leave bags at shops and hotels around the center. Prices start around €1–3 per bag per day and vary by bag size and location (checked October 2026).
- Tolls Highway tolls go through the rental’s electronic transponder (Via Verde), and the rental company bills your card separately after you return the car.
- Car seats In Portugal, children under 12 who are also under 135 cm (53 in) must ride in a car seat or booster; fines run €120–600 (Highway Code, Article 55). Add one as an option when you book the rental.
Prices, opening hours, flight routes and entry and driving rules in this post were checked in October 2026. They change, so please confirm them on the official sites when you book.
Flying from the U.S. or Canada
Booking from Canada? See prices in Canadian dollars
Prices
Portugal uses the euro. Restaurants in tourist areas are fairly pricey, though still cheaper than in other big western European cities. Supermarket prices are low, so mixing in a few nights of groceries from Mercadona or Aldi eaten at the apartment takes a lot of pressure off the budget. Bolt rides were cheap too, so we used them freely around town.
Getting a SIM
Sort out your phone plan before you go and you’ll have one less thing to think about. Some cities have phone stores downtown and some don’t, and at the airport the store may be missing or in another terminal. We paid US$65.40 for two of us at a downtown store (about €60 at the time). Next time we’d set up an eSIM before leaving.
Quick Q&A
Is two weeks in Portugal too long with a kid?
For us it was the right length. Split into four nights in Lisbon, two in the Algarve, one each in Vendas Novas and Coimbra, and five in Porto, the longest drive was about three and a half hours. Our kid always had something to do. He swam at Cascais and Albufeira, caught and released tadpoles at Alte waterfall and splashed in the fountain in Évora for ages. At Matosinhos beach in Porto he played soccer with kids he’d just met. After hearing about the gun ports at São Jorge Castle, he was still explaining the next day how he’d have held off the enemy.
Can I copy this itinerary as is?
The overall shape works fine. If we went again, though, we’d probably take a day off Lisbon or Porto and add a night in each of the small towns in between (Évora, Óbidos, Coimbra). The times in the daily plans are photo timestamps, so leave more slack for travel when you build your own.
What’s the weather like in Portugal in March?
The year we went, Lisbon and the south topped 20°C (68°F) in mid-March, and Porto at the end of the month was 14–15°C (57–59°F) and often rainy.
How do you get from the airport to the city?
In Lisbon, an airport transfer got us to our downtown apartment in about 30 minutes. On departure day in Porto, a Bolt from the apartment to the airport took about 25 minutes.
Where do you get a SIM card?
We bought ours at a downtown store in Lisbon the day we arrived. Next time we’d set up an eSIM before leaving home.
How do you do Sintra from Lisbon?
The train from Rossio Station takes about 45 minutes. We walked from Sintra town to Quinta da Regaleira and took a tuk-tuk up to Pena Palace. We did Cabo da Roca and Cascais by taxi, and took a taxi back to Lisbon too. It’s a full day, so start early. Buy train tickets that morning at the Rossio ticket office or machines; if you have a Lisboa Card, it covers this CP train. Pena Palace tickets aren’t included, so buy them ahead on the Parques de Sintra website.
Can you pick up a rental car in Lisbon and drop it in Porto?
Yes. We picked up downtown in Lisbon and returned downtown in Porto, with a one-way fee of €61 (plus VAT).
Is parking hard in the small towns?
In Évora, parking outside the walls and walking in was easy. In places like Nazaré and Coimbra, near the main sights, you may have to circle a few times. Plan on a lot outside the center within walking distance and it isn’t a big deal.
The short version
- RouteLisbon 4 nights → Algarve 2 → Vendas Novas 1 · Coimbra 1 (via Évora, Óbidos, Nazaré) → Porto 5
- Getting aroundWalking, trams and Bolt in the cities; a six-day one-way rental between them (about 1,130 km/702 mi)
- Best forFamilies who want Lisbon and Porto, the Age of Discovery sites, the southern coast and the small towns of central Portugal in one two-week trip
- Best momentsThe packed day from Sintra to the beach at Cascais, the rock coast at Ponta da Piedade, Óbidos in bloom, the canals of Aveiro, the fado show in Porto
- Good to knowBring an umbrella and layers for Porto, set up an eSIM before you go, compare flights with arrival and departure cities swapped
- CostRental car, six days: €185.36 on the contract (VAT included, gas and tolls extra)
After the full loop
Lisbon’s hills, the rock coast of the south, the cork oak roads and walled towns, and the river city of Porto. For us it couldn’t have been a better trip. With the rental car we got into every corner of the country, and the brand-new car was a bonus. Once we’d made the full loop, it felt less like finishing a book and more like reading a whole multivolume set from start to finish.
The people who stay with you
What stays with us is the people. In shops and restaurants they were kind once more, just past the point where kind enough would have been fine: the server in Ourique who chose our lunch for us, recommending the chickpea, egg and cod dish; the man at the Porto pizza place who let our kid spread the sauce on the dough; the woman in the park in Aveiro who shared her bread with him. Since we got back, the thing we say most often as a family is that Portugal seems even better now that we’ve left.
If we went again
There are things we’d change. We stayed long in Lisbon and Porto at either end, and an extra night in each of the towns in between would have worked well too. We returned the car the day after we got to Porto, thinking driving in the old town would be a hassle, but keeping it a few more days, even with some taxi rides mixed in, would have let us explore around Porto more freely. That said, the trip as it was suited us well.
A few places we debated and left out: Faro, the Algarve’s main city; Benagil Cave by boat; the Douro Valley wineries near Porto. We’re keeping them as reasons to go back. The parts this post only touches on, like Sintra and the road trip itself, will get their own posts.
What we only understood afterward
Portugal reached every corner of the world by sea during the Age of Discovery, so even traveling elsewhere afterward, you keep running into its traces. Maybe that’s why the trip stays with you long after it ends. The thought that first came to us in Aveiro, that we could retire here, has come back many times since. Only after going did I understand what the professor meant about choosing Portugal as the one place to live, and what our friends meant when they said how much they loved it.
Planning your own two weeks in Portugal
The transportation, stays and tours from this post, in one place.
Getting there and around
Stays and tours
Booking from Canada? See prices in Canadian dollars: flights · rental car
Our 2 weeks in Portugal
- March 17·203 days in Lisbon and Belém
- March 19Sintra, Cabo da Roca and Cascais
- March 21–22Two days on the Algarve
- March 23Alte and Évoracoming soon
- March 24Óbidos and Nazarécoming soon
- March 25Coimbra and Aveirocoming soon
- March 26Porto (1): first walk through the citycoming soon
- March 27Porto (2): beach, fishing village and gardenscoming soon
- March 28Porto (3): market, sunset and light showcoming soon
- March 29–30Porto (4): cathedral, fado and departure daycoming soon
- March 30–31One night in Brusselscoming soon
- TopicGetting around & prep
- TopicFood
The day-by-day posts are coming in order; topic posts (getting around, food) are listed at the end.
What we checked 19 sources
- Google Maps route estimates (October 2, 2026)
- IPMA (Portuguese weather service) climate normals 1991–2020: Lisbon, Porto (airport), Faro
- OGIMET daily weather station summaries: Lisbon (08535), Faro (08554), Porto (08545), March 2024
- Lonely Planet, Best time to visit Portugal (high and low seasons)
- Parques de Sintra official website, hours and prices (checked October 3, 2026)
- Museus e Monumentos de Portugal official website (Monday closures at Belém Tower and the Coach Museum); São Jorge Castle official website
- UNESCO World Heritage List: University of Coimbra (2013), Alto Douro Wine Region (2001), Historic Centre of Porto (1996)
- Benagil Cave navigation rules from August 2024 (Portuguese maritime authority, reported by Tomorrow Algarve); low-season boat schedules (Live Like It’s the Weekend, Earth Trekkers)
- Lisboa Card official website (included transit and sights); Portuguese Highway Code, Article 55 (child car seats)
- Forbes (December 2025), Portugal’s cork production
- Livraria Lello official website FAQ (entry voucher)
- Atlas Obscura, McDonald’s Imperial
- Porto.travel: Crystal Palace Gardens, Matosinhos and Afurada
- Luggage storage apps’ Lisbon pages: Bounce, Radical Storage, Stasher, Nannybag (checked October 2026)
- Official websites of lodgings and sights (VidaMar, NH Hotels, Portugal dos Pequenitos, Monument to the Discoveries, Pastéis de Belém)
- U.S. Department of State, Portugal travel information (driving on a U.S. license, entry); Government of Canada, travel advice for Portugal (driving on a Canadian license, Schengen stays, EES); Government of Canada, International Driving Permit (checked October 3, 2026)
- EU Delegation to the United States, ETIAS (planned start in the last quarter of 2026, checked October 3, 2026)
- Nonstop routes and flight times: FlightsFrom.com (Newark, Boston, Montreal to Lisbon), FlightConnections (Toronto to Lisbon), Porto Airport airline list on Wikipedia (checked October 3, 2026)
- GoLisbon, time in Portugal (time difference with New York); European Central Bank euro reference rate, October 2, 2026
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